"Kaito on West 72nd Street serves a 13-course omakase for $98 that doesn't follow the same progression as most other high-end options in the neighborhood. Every two or three nigiri rounds will be broken up by a cooked dish like tempura fried hake in a mushroom broth and maybe a smoked goldeneye snapper collar if you’re lucky. The sushi tends to lean traditional here, but the slices of fish are notably thicker than what you may have seen elsewhere. When you’re eating hefty pieces of king salmon and Japanese mackerel, you’ll really feel like you’re getting your money’s worth. If the omakase here feels like a stretch, check out Sushi Yasaka across the street, where you’ll find a la carte and set options." - bryan kim, willa moore, neha talreja, hannah albertine, will hartman