"The closure of Papaya King, the 90-year-old hotdog spot on the Upper East Side, was some of the most devastating restaurant news of 2022. But the dogs are back and barking again, now on 86th and 3rd. Some of the old-school charm is missing—the old corner spot had an unmistakable neon orange sign, and big windows that revealed vats of swirling fruit juice, and walls papered with photos of regulars. The new spot is on the ground floor of a residential building, and has a more fast-casual corporate real estate vibe, with black trim, a short counter, and just enough space for a few standing tables. But the menu is exactly the same, and so are the simple and perfect hot dogs, which are best enjoyed dripping with sauerkraut, sweet relish, and homemade mustard. A photo of Anthony Bourdain crushing a dog looks over the scene, and we think he’d approve of the Papaya King comeback. Food Rundown photo credit: Will Hartman Hot Dog Juicy, snappy, and topped with whatever you’d like—we go mustard and relish or mustard and sauerkraut, though you can’t go wrong with chili, cheese, or peppers and onions. This $5 snack feels like discovering the urtext of a New York style hot dog. Get two. Papaya Tropical Drink Getting a creamy orange papaya drink is mandatory. Yes, it tastes like blended-up Froot Loops, but don’t let the immense amount of sugar steer you away. You need it to balance the saltiness of the hot dog. Knish If you’re really hungry, grab a knish. The potatoes are fluffy, and it’s startlingly good with some of their sharp mustard." - Will Hartman
