"Getting off the train in Marseille is like stepping into another world. France’s second city is a lively Mediterranean port with food to match—and nothing like the bistro and brasserie dishes in the north. When it opened in 2018, La Mercerie was among the first of a “new generation” of restaurants putting Marseille on the country’s culinary map. The kitchen team is global and so is the food: you’ll spot dishes like heirloom tomatoes with breadcrumbs and smoked anchovies in summer, and leg of lamb with mole, polenta, and grilled okra in winter. There are a dozen wines by the glass and 100-plus by the bottle, and that’s only counting those from France. La Mercerie is as popular as ever, so make sure you reserve in advance." - sophie friedman