"Sushi-San in River North has a 10-seat omakase one floor above the restaurant’s usual party of loud hip-hop. It’s one of the city’s more luxurious omakases ($250 per person), with a dark waiting lounge that makes you want to be careful when sitting down, and ingredients that already sound very expensive before the chef’s explanation (1,000-year-old cedar). But the well-paced, 18-course dinner never takes itself too seriously, with its J. Cole soundtrack and a head chef who says “OK, let’s party” after everyone takes a welcoming sake shot. And while not every dish is a powerhouse, there are many memorable bites: a delicate toro tartare covered with caviar, an extra-buttery scallop, and perfectly charred snow beef with wasabi. RESERVE A TABLE WITH RESERVE A TABLE" - Nick Allen