John's of Bleecker Street Review - West Village - New York - The Infatuation
"Some people will tell you that John’s of Bleecker Street makes the best pizza in NYC. Those people are wrong, but we get where they're coming from. This whole-pies-only West Village restaurant (around since 1929) isn’t as quality-obsessed or detail-oriented as new-school spots like L’Industrie and Mama’s Too. They pound out their dough, dump on some toppings, and call it a day. Yet, thanks to one very old oven and a heap of nostalgia, John’s still qualifies as a (second-tier) NYC classic. It’s easy to love this place, with its scuffed checkered floors and walls of celebrity photos, and it’s just as easy to see all the tourists lined up outside and vow to never set foot here. Don’t stand in that line, but do stop by at lunch, when it’s relatively quiet. Once seated, carve your name into your wooden booth, listen to the Four Tops, and try one of the city’s crispiest pies. photo credit: Bryan Kim photo credit: Bryan Kim photo credit: Bryan Kim The crust is exceptionally chewy, and the seasoning on the century-old coal-fired oven provides a deep, charred flavor that lingers on the palate like a vintage Bordeaux. Other than that, the pizza is generic, with heavy-handed toppings and Polly-O cheese. It’s good, but don't expect to be wowed by the ingredients. Entrees, like spaghetti and chicken parm, are best left undiscussed. John’s is no Lucali. It’s also no Katz’s, L&B, or Keens. Unlike many of the city’s oldest restaurants, this place isn’t a must-visit. But if you’ve already hit the top pizza spots or need to placate a friend who receives all their intel from a 20-year-old copy of the Fodor’s guide to NYC, go forth and enjoy a crunchy pie. Food Rundown photo credit: Bryan Kim The Sasso John’s serves a bunch of different specialty pies, some of which are aggressive with the toppings. Keep it simple with The Sasso, a plain pie with the subtle addition of black pepper. The Chubby Vesce We’re fans of the Chubby Vesce—piled with sausage, garlic, and onions—but you need to eat it fast, before it gets soggy enough to qualify as a soup. photo credit: Bryan Kim Chicken Parmigiana What? Why? Are you OK? Don’t get anything that isn’t pizza at John’s." - Bryan Kim
