"It’s easy to be cynical about magic tricks. No one actually believes those doves appeared out of nowhere or that the ace of hearts was in the guy’s mouth the whole time. But after our first visit to Simón, we found ourselves scratching our heads in disbelief and amazement, as if someone had just pulled a quarter from behind our ear. Working with limited kitchen space (about 16 square feet) and limited hands (there’s one chef), this Mexican mariscos truck in Highland Park serves seafood dishes that wouldn’t be out of place at a fine dining restaurant, which feels kind of magical in its own right. In many ways, the experience at Simón reminds us of the glory days of Guerrilla Tacos, back before the famed street taco spot had graduated to a brick-and-mortar space. Which is to say, this isn’t just your average mariscos operation. The flavors and textures here are calculated and complex, from the smoked tomatillo salsa in the aguachile negro to the caramelized onion and charred pineapple on the fish al pastor. photo credit: Matt Gendal Simón is run by the Carnal chef, who previously cooked at Pitiona, a renowned fine dining spot in Oaxaca. The menu at Simón takes inspiration from that region as well as the coast of Chiapas in Southern Mexico, which in many dishes, translates to a good amount of tropical fruit mixed in with chiles and fresh herbs. There’s an excellent Baja-style fish taco with a tangy tomato sauce that soaks into the crunchy beer batter, and one of the most show-stopping tacos we've had in recent memory: soft shell crab tossed in smoky chipotle mayo topped with pickled onion. All these creations are delicious and gorgeous, but there’s also a secret weapon that bumps them to the next level: the truck’s refrigerated salsa cabinet. Whatever you order, these creative flavor combinations will crank your food up several notches. The creamy carrot habanero salsa packs a heat that creeps up on you, and the sweet, nutty pica piña salsa belongs on everything edible. photo credit: Matt Gendal As Simón’s logo proudly displays, the truck specializes in mariscos chingones (a.k.a. some real bad*ss seafood). We strongly agree. And yet, despite the caliber of food, you’ll never forget you’re eating from a food truck. You’re sitting at a table on York Blvd, eating an octopus barbacoa taco topped with life-altering salsa while cars whoosh past. The juxtaposition feels quintessentially LA, and maybe even a little magical. Food Rundown photo credit: Matt Gendal Aguachile Rojo We're fans of this aguachile because every bite is a little different. It's wonderfully bright at first from fresh lime, before you get a bite of sweet pineapple. Then a huge wave of heat hits from the fiery chiltepín. It's a wild rollercoaster ride for your mouth. Mixed Ceviche This ceviche is like the rest of us: not perfect, but trying its absolute best. The shrimp and octopus are nicely cured and tender, the leche de tigre has the right balance of salty and sour, and we love the big chunks of cilantro, sweet mango, and cucumber. photo credit: Matt Gendal Fish Al Pastor This fish al pastor might not pack the same flavor bomb as a traditional pork al pastor, but it's a pretty genius idea nonetheless. The fish is flaky and pairs well with the caramelized onions and charred pineapple wedge. Adding big splatters of pica piña salsa is strongly recommended. photo credit: Matt Gendal Soft Shell Crab Taco If you find small crabs cute, this taco might be kind of jarring. You'll see fried little crab legs peeking out of the tortilla, but the shock factor quickly dissipates once you hear that satisfying crunch. The diced pineapple and pickled onions inside keep things light and fresh, even with a big glob of spicy mayo on top. Baja-Style Fish Taco We didn't come here expecting to find love, but this suave Baja-style fish taco now owns our hearts. The crispy beer batter is fried perfectly, then coated in a smoky tomato sauce before being finished with chipotle mayo and a heap of salted red cabbage. photo credit: Matt Gendal Salsa Cabinet This cabinet is a flex. Other taco trucks give you room-temperature salsa verde, but at Simón's, the salsa selections are chilled, varied, and served in mason jars with little wooden spoons. There's a nutty-sweet pineapple one, a tangy carrot habanero one with a fiery vengeance, creamy guacachile with lots of fresh cilantro, and a smoky salsa macha made jet black by charred chiles. If you're not sure which one to try, the jar labels provide taco pairing suggestions." - Sylvio Martins
