Bébé Bob Review - Soho - London - The Infatuation
"Bébé Bob comes from the same restaurant group that brought London the button and, at first glance, this shiny spot on Soho Square feels similarly extroverted. It’s bold, bright, and could be the location for Austin Powers’ supper club. Look past its kaleidoscopic interior and you'll quickly realise that this showy rotisserie restaurant has a simple heart. It makes excellent chicken, roasts crispy potatoes, and is a welcomely uncomplicated dining option in an often annoying part of London. The carpet, banquettes, and walls glow red and blue, there’s a selection of caviars on the menu, and we wouldn’t be surprised if there was a Bollinger-fuelled conversation pit in another room. At night, glasses clink and laughter cackles across the room. Young PR sorts with Soho House memberships get down with the truffled fries just as much as the old Groucho advertising heads do with a portion of Vendée chicken at the bar. Frankly, it’s all much better value than any membership club. Peacocking aside, Bébé Bob is a practical restaurant. Old-school starters like prawn cocktail are expertly made and there are two choices of main: chicken or chicken. The Landes one (French, yellow, fancy) is pushed to the highest scale on the juice-o-meter while wearing an impressively crisp overshirt. It only comes whole. The less rich Vendée is similarly delicious and makes a strong solo lunch or dinner at the bar. Every once in a while the kids’ menu gives the grown-ups a pang of jealousy, and Bébé Bob seems to get that. This isn’t a restaurant that wants to break the boundaries of gastronomy. It wants you to eat chicken, chips, get a little loose on champagne, and let your iPhone tell you to turn your headphones down on the tube home. " - Jake Missing
