"When it opened in 2018, La Mercerie was among the first of a “new generation” of restaurants putting Marseille on the country’s culinary map. The kitchen team is global and so is the food: you’ll spot dishes like heirloom tomatoes with breadcrumbs and smoked anchovies in summer, and leg of lamb with mole, polenta, and grilled okra in winter. There are a dozen wines by the glass and 100-plus by the bottle, and that’s only counting those from France. La Mercerie is as popular as ever, so make sure you reserve in advance. If you want some privacy or the option for quiet conversation, ask for a table outside or near the back of the dining room. To be in the (slightly louder) center of things and see the kitchen in action, sit at the long wooden communal counter. Air-conditioning: Yes." - sophie friedman
