"All the cold appetizers Last month, SF Staff Writer Julia Chen revisited her family-favorite restaurant Little Shanghai in San Mateo. “We always start our meal off with a few of these, like the smoked fish, drunken chicken, bean curd with ma lan tou, salted duck, and fried puff bean curd with black mushroom,” she wrote in her most recent feature. “They’re light and refreshing, and the perfect balance of salty and sweet.”" - team infatuation