Papa San - Review - Hudson Yards - New York - The Infatuation
"Papa San in Hudson Yards is the first foray into the world of business lunches for the Llama San and Llama Inn people. The plant-filled corner space with floor-to-ceiling glass walls is a refreshing backdrop for a midday business meal if you've just spent an alarming number of hours in a windowless conference room. And if you order right, it works. The Japanese Peruvian food is interesting and often delicious. A fluke tiradito bathing in avocado leche de tigre will have you spooning up every drop, and an eel pizza loaded with parmesan successfully defies any cheese-on-fish haters. Other pairings are more puzzling: the blue crab maki roll finished with Frank’s Red Hot, for instance, veers into gas station sushi territory. photo credit: William Jess Laird photo credit: Tiffany Yannetta photo credit: William Jess Laird Pause Unmute For a non-work meal, Papa San is a harder sell. At night, those big windows make it feel like a fishbowl. (You are the fish.) That one colleague you’re avoiding might spy you in there, and even the bourbon-based Orange Blossom cocktail doesn’t make the full-frontal views of office buildings any sweeter. Unless you are one of the few brave souls who live in Hudson Yards, you can skip this one for your Friday night dinner. Llama Inn, their Williamsburg restaurant with a rooftop, is much better suited. But in the context of Hudson Yards, Papa San is a breath of fresh air among the area's more Italian-dominated upscale options. Food Rundown Fluke, Avocado, Grapes A winning combination of grape slivers, sliced avocado, and fluke, all submerged in a thick, tangy avocado leche de tigre. The puffed rice on top seals the deal. photo credit: Willa Moore Eel Pizza, Shitake Mushrooms, Pecorino More like a flatbread, but delicious nonetheless. The eel is lacquered in a sticky-sweet glaze, the bonito flakes wriggle like they’re giving their own tableside show, and the slivers of shitake mushroom and pecorino battle each other for the funkiest part of this dish. photo credit: Dane Tashima Blue Crab, Togarashi, Tartar Sauce Generally, avoid the maki rolls. The Frank’s Red Hot on this blue crab roll is confusing, and the rock shrimp tempura roll isn’t much better. The slightly sweet coconut cream drizzled on top of the shrimp is too sweet for the dish, but does taste like the makings of a beautiful piña colada. photo credit: Willa Moore Yellow Fin Tuna Tataki, Ponzu Tuna and ponzu is a classic pairing, but this dish is a little one-note. Udon Noodles Cacio E Pepe, Wok Squid Like the best version of a late-night craving, here udon noodles are smothered in a smoky cacio e pepe sauce. The squid gets a little lost, but provides a nice chew when you do find it. photo credit: Willa Moore Papa San Bento Sets The lunch-only bento sets sound intriguing, but at $35, calling this a lunch special of any kind feels wrong. But if you'd rather not share small plates with your coworkers—or if someone else is paying—the bento sets are a solid choice. They come with your choice of rice or potato, a salad, and protein: like a nice piece of pork belly with singed edges and jello-like layers of fat. photo credit: Tiffany Yannetta Grilled Picanha, Ikura, Beef Broth We like all the elements of this dinner-only donburi bowl separately, but the ikura gets a little lost in the sea of steak and rice, which are both cooked in so much butter it's hard to focus on anything else except how slick the inside of your mouth feels. The mild beef broth served on the side tastes like an afterthought. photo credit: Willa Moore" - Willa Moore
