Eeva Review - Kensington - Philadelphia - The Infatuation
"Sometimes it seems like Fishtown and Kensington are assembling a restaurant version of Now That’s What I Call Music, but instead of pop songs, it’s endless hit after hit pizza places. But what sets Eeva apart from nearby spots like Hook & Master, Pizzeria Beddia, and Pizza Shackamaxon is that in addition to being a pizzeria, it’s a natural wine bottle shop, all-day bakery, and sandwich shop. And most importantly, they serve stellar pizza, which–like a compilation of chart-topping songs–you can’t get out of your head. PHL Guide Philadelphia's Best New Dishes Of 2022 photo credit: EMILY SCHINDLER The Master Street corner restaurant has some solid options to start the day. Their bakery–full of naturally leavened and organic bread–is open seven days a week. So you can stop in for an assortment of buns, coffee cakes, strawberry rhubarb tarts, or a quick turkey club before heading to the office. When it comes to dinner, you can expect an opening act of salads, warm focaccia with fresh ricotta, and marinated olives as you make your way to the real headliner–the pizza. Between the char rings and good crunch on their doughy crust, Eeva’s pizza is some of the best in the city. photo credit: EMILY SCHINDLER In their rotating lineup of about six options, you’ll find a handful of assorted red and white pies (there is always a margherita on the menu). And if you’re lucky enough to be there when the fontina, mozzarella, roasted fennel cream, sliced garlic, Grana Padano, and stracciatella is on the menu, you’ll be eating our favorite white in the city. If we met a genie, our first wish would be to keep Eeva open past 3pm Monday-Wednesday so we could have the creamy, airy, garlicky mashup every night of the week. photo credit: EMILY SCHINDLER The intimate spot is ideal for anything from a date night, where you can split a pizza and sip on a smooth bourbon or watermelon high ball, to a group dinner with a bottle of South African Chenin. The space is full of large communal tables, marble-topped four-seaters, a few long wooden booths, and a chef’s counter where you can watch the fire flicker in the oven while you countdown to your own gooey slice. Add Eeva to your list of all-day go-to’s. It can easily take you from your morning egg and cheese sandwich to a night with friends, full of assorted drinks, and pizzas that—like the catchiest of songs—you’ll play on repeat. Food Rundown photo credit: GAB BONGHI Sandwiches Like the pizzas, the sandwiches here rotate quite often, and are almost always served on their toasted housemade sourdough. They’re simple, with just a handful of ingredients–like their tomato that’s topped with lettuce, olive oil, house mayo, and sea salt, or turkey club (that has the same ingredients, plus smoked turkey). The combination of their fluffy, slightly sour bread and quality cuts of meat is a close second to the sandwiches at Middle Child Clubhouse nearby. photo credit: EMILY SCHINDLER Red Pies Eeva has their sweet basil sauce down to a perfectly tangy and subtly sweet science. The red pies here–like the margherita–have a sauce with a slight sweetness to it, and the crusts are a bit more well-done than the whites. White Pies We just don't know how they do it. Their white pies here are so well-timed that the crust is soft and chewy–but never undercooked. They usually top them with things like mozzarella, Grana, and basil or roasted fennel cream. This always makes for a super gooey pie that still has the perfect crunch. After a few bites, it just turns into a satisfyingly smooth and cheesy mousse in your mouth. High Ball We know the main reason to come to a bottle shop is to pick up a bottle of red or white. But if the high ball is available, grab it. It’s one of the best we’ve had in the city. It’s wonderfully light, sweet, refreshing, and ultra smooth, with a mix of bourbon, watermelon, and balsamic tajín mixed in." - Candis R. McLean
