"The flavor of the flame is a perennial favorite in this part of the world (see: Basque burnt cheesecake). It’s the driving force behind this impressive new restaurant in Gros, opened by a Basque-Mexican couple who each brings the flavors of their native cuisine to a cozy, low-lit dining room. The menu is laser-focused on in-season produce (when you catch a glimpse of the tiny kitchen on the way to the dining room, you’ll see why), starting with a few dishes based on the vegetable pull of the week, like a white bean purée with shaved cauliflower or a five(!)-mushroom risotto topped with a lovely steak-like slice of porcini. You can order a la carte, but we recommend the tasting menu for a bit of everything, including fresh fish ceviche, chargrilled steak, and meltingly tender pluma pork. A fab wine list, broken down into light, powerful, and special occasion wines, cements R as a destination for diners who demand more than traditional Spanish wines to pair." - Marti Buckley