"Big Mamma restaurants operate as a shiny support programme for people who wish to get a bit silly on their birthday. Their Kensington trattoria is the ideal caricature-of-Italy backdrop with chandeliers, red velvet booths, and such a large selection of indoor plants that we fear for local garden centres. It’s gloriously OTT and despite the food ranging from “eh?” to “decent”, it’s worth booking to feel like a member of Donatella Versace’s posse." - jake missing, rianne shlebak, sinead cranna, heidi lauth beasley