Little Walter’s

"Sure, pickle martinis and velvet couches are alluring, but what draws crowds to Little Walter’s like f*ckboys to Axe body spray are the kielbasa and pierogi. You’ll find them on just about every table in the intimate, smoke-scented Kensington restaurant. It’s no surprise—there are about as many places to ice skate in Philly as there are good Polish spots. But the rest of Little Walter’s seasonal menu lacks the flavor and consistency found in its addictive dumplings and charred sausage. photo credit: Gab Bonghi photo credit: Gab Bonghi photo credit: Gab Bonghi photo credit: Gab Bonghi photo credit: Gab Bonghi Couples share Urbanistas at the wooden bar (a take on the Citywide that includes a Polish beer and a shot), and friends marvel at the mostly one-man operation in the open kitchen. He serves three types of crescent-shaped pierogi, all crisp-edged and supple, along with peppery kielbasa and tender rotisserie pork. Before you feast on those, you should go for the assorted tray of pickled vegetables that comes with pale brown rye bread that we think of more than our next vacation. But steer clear of the overcooked monkfish in a dull borscht and the crispy chicken cutlet sauteed in plum butter—it flails between juicy on some nights and too tough to chew on others. Stick to what Little Walter’s does best, plus a sazerac or two, and you’ll leave satisfied and with a newfound appreciation for the old country. Food Rundown photo credit: GAB BONGHI Pierogi Ruskie This is the standard potato, farmer cheese, and caramelized onion pierogi. The doughy half moons come in generous sizes and portions here (there are four per order). Topped with a mound of sour cream, this is a classic mashup of earthiness, creaminess, and sweetness. video credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN Pierogi Z Baklazanem There is always a pierogi with a little kick on the menu. It’s tender and packed with sauteed eggplant, pepper relish, and a tangy horseradish sauce. It’s a well-balanced, spicy counter to the straightforward Ruskie option. photo credit: Gab Bonghi Kielbasa This is the best thing at Little Walter’s. Each smoky sausage has the subtle flavor of cilantro and marjoram running through it, giving it a distinctive garlicky, woodsy taste. It’s served next to a fluffy mustard spread. It’s almost lip-smacking good, in the way that you’ll start by eating one slice at a time and up the ante to three at once. photo credit: Gab Bonghi Wieprzowina Z Rozna Shredded, salty rotisserie pork and herby potatoes in a tangy stewed meat and sweet-sour sauerkraut stew. It’s the ultimate comfort dish. Kotlet Z Kurczaka When done well, this works as a substitute for the pork. But this chicken cutlet with broccoli rabe and potatoes is sometimes as stiff as cardboard. It’s a game of dining roulette that may not be worth the gamble. video credit: CANDIS R. MCLEAN Iód Wodny They call this dessert water ice, but it’s more like a soft serve. We’ve had cantaloupe and pear. Both came topped with blackberry sauce and puffed rye berries. It’s not an absolute must, but it’s a smooth, light, and fruity counter to the meaty richness you just devoured over 90 minutes." - Candis R. McLean