"Relaxed wine bars with small shared plates are having a moment in Milan (and, well, everywhere else), but the kitchen at Botoi in Porta Venezia stands out. Call ahead to secure a spot at one of the four tables or two stools to watch the one-man show: the young Italian owner is there every night to chat with guests in between cooking, serving, busing, and pouring wine. The small menu of seasonal seafood and produce is mainly traditional Northern Italian plates with a twist, with standouts like chard lasagna with smoked provola and polenta with baccalà and monk’s beard. The long-fermented focaccia, with onions, black olives, and anchovies is otherworldy. " - elizabeth de filippo jones