Nàdair has exciting new takes on traditional Scottish dishes - Review - Atlanta - The Infatuation
"Plaid is the unofficial mascot at Nadáir, a tasting menu-only, Scottish-influenced restaurant in Woodland Hills serving excellent wood-fired meats. The pattern is everywhere. On the leather bench seating, the curtains, the floor and, occasionally, on kilt-wearing diners. That decor—along with soft lighting and music, quiet table conversations, and lengthy soliloquies about the origins of each dish—can make Nadáir feel a bit stuffy at times. But if you’re looking for a leisurely dinner that works as well for a date night as for a group of friends who want to hear each other speak, this is the place to do it. Celebrity chef Kevin Gillespie, founder and former executive chef of Gunshow and Woodfire Grill, has Scottish heritage on both sides, so you’ll see some traditional dishes on the seasonally rotating menu, like a buttery haggis pie, throughout your three- or six-course dinner ($89 and $175, respectively). And prepare yourself for a spiel about the chef’s relatives as inspiration behind a dish, as is the case with the fork-tender pork shoulder and tangy grilled potato salad, a recipe from his grandmother. It should be no surprise that Nadáir’s wood-fired dishes generally shine—we especially like the smoky, tender wagyu beef culotte and charred scallops. Lighter plates, like lamb tartare with roasted pistachios and green tomatoes, are also flame grilled, and offer a fresh, zesty contrast to the heavier options. By the time your check arrives (tucked into an old library book), the solemn commitment to the Scottish theme will either have you charmed or feeling a bit smothered, like being wrapped in an endless tartan blanket. But in the end, it’s the fantastic food here that leaves the strongest impression. photo credit: Dominique White photo credit: Dominique White photo credit: Angie Mosier photo credit: Dominique White Food Rundown Lamb Tenderloin “Au Sauvage” (from the summer menu) The lamb tartare with roasted pistachios and green tomatoes taste incredibly light, zesty, and is a nice change of pace from some of the heavier meat dishes. Smoked Maine Lobster “a la Andrew Fairlie” (from the summer menu) The lobster with creamy thermidor sauce is buttery and rich without being heavy. Wood Grilled Wagyu Beef Culotte (from the summer menu) Juicy and beautifully charred, the wood-grilled wagyu beef culotte is a standout. Served with buttery potato pavé, it’s the kind of dish that sticks with you. Spiced Lacquered Pork Shoulder (from the summer menu) The char-kissed pork shoulder holds its smoky flavor. Served with savory collard greens and zesty grilled potato salad, this is hands down one of the best things on the menu. Cured Scottish Steelhead (from the fall menu) Ultra-smooth, this cured Scottish steelhead (flown in from Scotland) is great alongside a velvety squash purée and smoked trout roe that enhances its natural richness. Vegetarian Haggis Pie (from the fall menu) This is almost like an upside down pot pie without the juiceness, which is unfortunate. The crust is beautifully flaky and buttery, but inside, the flavor is lost in the mashed smoked butternut squash and pumpkin puree. Apple cider Donut (from the fall menu) This is fine, a little dry-ish. The best part is the creamy whey caramel, which you’re supposed to dip the donut in but might just slurp down instead. Wine The sommelier is excellent, so the wine pairing is a worthy add-on. It features a diverse selection from sparkling and skin-contact wines to sweet varieties." - Jacinta Howard
