Four Kings Review - Chinatown - San Francisco - The Infatuation
"Four Kings is an umami-filled, wok-seared party. But you’ll know that the second you step into this Chinatown spot from some Mister Jiu’s folks. The sound of fried squab sizzles in the air, flames erupt as steak hits hot oil, and '90s Canto-Pop blasts through the speakers. Sure, the reimagined Cantonese dishes are excellent, but this shōchū-fueled fest is also just a great time. photo credit: Pete Lee photo credit: Pete Lee photo credit: Erin Ng photo credit: Pete Lee photo credit: Erin Ng A meal here remixes classic Cantonese plates with French and American twists—dishes that hit the right notes of savory, rich, and sweet. Take the XO escargot served with fluffy milk bread that soaks up the tangy sauce. Or the mango pudding with a delicate balance of sweet, tangy, and floral from a scoop of strawberry sorbet and a shisho leaf. Some dishes are a bit heavy (looking at you, bacon-topped claypot rice), so balance those out with vegetables, like the snap peas with tofu dressing. But you’re here for more than the great food—you’re here for a good time that attracts all types of groups from across the city. Extended families pile in after sundown to order the entire menu while clinking glasses of shōchū. Dates belt out laughs while digging into big bowls of steak chow fun. And tourists are thrilled to find a place to eat after 10pm in a city that goes to bed early. photo credit: Erin Ng photo credit: Erin Ng Because it’s such a fun time inside, getting a seat at this small wooden spot can be a two-hour-long, wind-chill-filled slog. Prepare to book three weeks in advance for a table, or opt to walk in and wait for a seat at the bar. Stand in line before they open at 6pm, or just stop by on the later side for one of the best meals you can get in this city past 9pm. Don’t worry—the party will still be going. Food Rundown photo credit: Erin Ng XO Escargot With Milk Bread This is the best dish on the menu. The pillowy milk bread is fluffy, generally cloud-like, and the juicy escargot is doused in a housemade XO sauce. Dribble this sauce onto the bread, sop up what’s remaining, and lick your fingers when you’re done. photo credit: Erin Ng Snap Peas With Tofu Dressing These peas break up the richness of some of the other dishes. They’ve got a great amount of crunch and have a bit of horseradish-esque tang that lingers in your sinuses. photo credit: Erin Ng Fried Squab This squab has been dried for more than a week, and you can tell. The skin practically falls off, revealing a juicy interior. It’s served whole, making it possible to suck the bones dry—and you should. photo credit: Erin Ng HK Black Pepper Steak The steak is overcooked, and it lacks the flavorful punch of many of the other dishes. Skip this. photo credit: Erin Ng Steak Chow Fun Get this instead of the steak. You still get some chunky bits of meat for half the price, and we appreciate the inclusion of pickled onions. But it could use even more of an acidic kick. photo credit: Julia Chen Claypot Rice With Chinese Sausage And Bacon Juicy chinese sausage and bacon are layered on top of rice that’s ladled with chicken fat—it’s the most decadent dish on the menu and a must-order. As always, the crispy bits at the bottom are the best part. photo credit: Erin Ng Mango Pudding A dollop of mango pudding comes with a scoop of a seasonal sorbet—on all of our visits it’s been strawberry—making a great, slightly sour accompaniment. Nuts add crunch, and shiso leaves give it a hint of freshness. It all comes together with Chinese almond milk (made from apricot pits) to create a few perfect bites. Highballs The highballs sound great in theory, but they all taste a bit watery, so stick to a classic Tsingtao instead. Or even better, go for a whole bottle of shōchū and lean into the fun of it all—it might even get commemorated with a Polaroid attached to your empty bottle." - Ricky Rodriguez
