"Cumpa is a Northern-style tavern on a quiet corner in Surquillo—a barrio now buzzing with new, creative restaurants—and full of sturdy tables, daylight streaming in (they close daily by 5pm), and dishes that inspire long conversations. There’s always ceviche, but also smoked trout muchame, green tamales, empanadas, and butifarras. Some dishes they do best are also hard to find, like duck al cilindro and duck ceviche, and pepián de choclo from Monsefú in Lambayeque. At the bar, pisco cocktails flow alongside seasonal drinks like the fresh, citrusy Clementina with pisco and chili. If you come for brunch, go for a cheese humita with pickled ajíes, a pejerrey sandwich, or a frito chiclayano." - paola miglio