"You could drive past this tiny Thai Town spot 100 times and not notice it, but don’t let that happen—they serve a khao soi we'd rank among the most essential dishes in the city. What makes Pailin’s version so good is the unabashed brightness of the broth itself. It’s buttery and sweet, with huge punches of citrus even before you squeeze the lime over it. And for that reason, you’ll find us picking up an order here any time we've had a bad week or just want to feel better." - brant cox, nikko duren