"You can book a table at Evi’s, but most people stumble into this East Dulwich spot as walk-ins—to get out of the rain, to placate a scooter-wielding child, or because they can’t be bothered to cook and find themselves going full-moth at the sight of flickering candles and perfect chips. However you arrive—soaked to the skin, or with a child that insists on ramming strangers with their tasseled vehicle—you’ll be greeted warmly at this Greek restaurant and treated to the kind of life-affirming courgette fritters that’ll turn you into a regular. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch There are booths tucked away towards the back, where tables of four order gluggable Greek wine that threatens 9am meetings. And towards the front, where it’s slightly lighter but still comfortingly cave-like, hastily arranged Tuesday gossip sessions are sponsored by meltingly soft pork skewers. As you lean over for another swipe of taramasalata, your friendly server checks in, asking if you want the Gorillaz soundtrack drifting in from the kitchen lowered and nudges you towards a plate of pickles so sharp they'll set off a coughing fit. Trying to pry yourself out of this excellent spot is like wading through the thick honey drizzled on your halloumi slab: almost impossible. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Food Rundown photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Toursi Taste the rainbow, the pickle edition. This little plate of sharp, vinegar-heavy vegetables comes in appealing Starbust colours. Orange thinly sliced carrots, green juicy cucumbers, bright white shavings of crisp cauliflower, and little purple-black peppercorns. It tastes as refreshingly zingy as it looks. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Grilled Flatbread This is our kind of flatbread—thick and fluffy, with a shallow pool of herb-speckled oil rippling in the middle. An essential carb/shovel for the dips. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Taramasalata Supermarket taramasalata—smooth and pink like SpongeBob’s Patrick Star—has scarred us all. But this one will heal your trust issues. It’s pristine white and has a nice hint of fishiness without being overwhelming. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Tyrokafteri This spicy feta dip has the perfect ratio of whipped cheese to small chunks, which means you get surprise salty hits every few bites. It’s delightful. Our only gripe with both dips is that for the price, the portions are quite small. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Halloumi This is a halloumi hall of famer. It’s mild and mellow with a nice toastiness coming from the char, but the drizzle of hot honey is the winning addition. Equal parts sweet and spicy, and impossible not to devour. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Hoirina Kalamakia We’re not sure if the salty, juicy slivers separating these chunks of pork are lard or something else delicious, but they are a masterstroke. If you’re coming here alone, you could be very happy ordering these skewers and chips. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Patates Tiganites ‘Handcut fried potatoes’ is the simple description that goes alongside this menu item. Which is like describing a self-assessment tax form as ‘a bit annoying’. A huge understatement. These are perfect chips: slightly crispy, soft on the inside, and with lots of herbs scattered on top. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Kolokythokeftedes Each time we’ve had these fritters, they’ve been taken to the point of burnished brown that almost looks burnt, but they are in fact perfectly cooked and crispy. The batter is thin and falls apart with a gentle nudge, and inside the herb-infused mix of courgette and feta is soft and creamy." - Sinéad Cranna
