"A brief genealogy of Xi’an noodles in London: before there was Noodle Inn, there was Master Wei, and before Master Wei, there was its modern classic BYOB sibling, Xi’an Impression. Smack bang opposite Arsenal’s football stadium in Highbury, this white-walled shoebox restaurant serves what we like to call conversation-cancelling food. Think chicken in gluggable ginger sauce, obsession-worthy liangpi cold noodles, and of course, hand-pulled biang biang that might be the very reason chewing was invented. The bounce, the beef, the seemingly mile-length of those belt noodles all mean that you might have to queue to get in but the wait is entirely worth it." - heidi lauth beasley