ABC Kitchen serves beautiful food that’s occasionally delicious - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"Not all of us have access to a Southampton summer house, but even for those who do, Flatiron is a lot more convenient. That’s where ABC Kitchen comes in handy. Open since 2010, the restaurant remains a good neighborhood option for big groups, and a versatile choice for occasions that call for feasting on seasonal, organic vegetables. On weeknights, it’s routinely packed with first dates, team dinners, and grandparent birthday parties. That’s especially impressive given that the dining room is the size of a small airplane hanger. photo credit: ABC Kitchen photo credit: ABC Kitchen photo credit: ABC Kitchen Pause Unmute The comfortable if dated space recalls the HGTV programming of the first Obama administration, with shabby-chic chandeliers, mismatched plates and silverware, and shimmering candles in numbers usually associated with seances or arson fraud. But the restaurant also shows its age in ways that are less charming—like when you keep getting locked out of the tablet that for some reason serves as the drinks menu. The service moves in fits and starts, with dishes sometimes arriving overwhelmingly en masse, or with a delay that leaves you eying your neglected plate of lobster, languishing under a heat lamp at the pass. There are glitches out of the kitchen, too. The pretzel in the pretzel-dusted calamari is undetectable, as is any trace of salt. Wilted shiso accompanies fluke tartare, and strip steak is woefully overcooked. But if you optimize for small plates over big, veggies over seafood (and seafood over meat)—and pizza above all else, you can still have yourself a nice meal here, even if it’s not our first choice in the area. RESERVE A TABLE WITH RESERVE A TABLE Food Rundown Peekytoe Crab Toast A long-time ABC Kitchen staple—and one we hope never leaves the menu. Rather than saturated with mayo, this crab salad is bright and heavy on dill, with a hint of tingly heat that makes it irresistible. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Roast Carrot & Avocado Salad Another ABC Kitchen classic, this is a solid starter. The carrots are nicely caramelized and hold up well to the bright, citrusy dressing. photo credit: ABC Kitchen Oven Roasted Prawns These prawns weren’t on our radar, until we saw sizzling little skillets traveling through the dining room and they jumped to the top of our priority list. No regrets: they’re beautifully cooked, with a bracing brightness and a little heat. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Black Truffle Pizza The best thing here. ABC Kitchen’s pizzas are made with a whole-wheat crust that’s pillowy, lightly charred, and a tiny bit sweet. This creamy black truffle pie with a barely set runny egg at its center is especially decadent, but not so rich that you can’t polish off the whole thing solo. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Fried Organic Chicken The chicken is juicy, with the kind of light, bubbly breading you’d expect from fish and chips. But the “hot sauce butter” it’s served with eats like a habanero-infused vinegar, completely overpowering the rest of the dish. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Wood Oven Roasted Maine Lobster We suspect this lobster was depressed. It just doesn’t taste like much, and the claw meat in particular is dry and fibrous. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Caramel Popcorn Sundae Charming, like Cracker Jack in dairy form. We especially like the bitter notes in the salted caramel ice cream. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick" - Molly Fitzpatrick
