MICHELIN Guide Budapest : wine, flowers and forest recipes in a historical building

"Set inside the historic Eiffel Palace near one of Budapest’s main train stations, this chic yet unpretentious dining room opened in 2015 and sets the mood with soft jazz, wine-lined walls, ivory tablecloths, and intimate lighting; businesspeople favor it for lunch, evenings turn loud and happy, and the kind team is reluctant to turn guests away even when fully booked. As an extension of the St. Andrea wine estate in Eger, the kitchen pursues simple, elegant plates where technique stays discreet, all in the spirit of doing good. Head chef Endre Kollár, promoted in October 2020 after serving as sous chef, channels an orchard-and-forest upbringing: he treats smoke as a sixth taste used sparingly, highlights game across the menus (except the vegetarian), and crafts a not-to-be-missed fallow deer stew (dám pörkölt) with porcini and tarhonya inspired by his grandmother. Edible flowers and fermentation reflect childhood lessons and a zero-waste ethos; though portions are elegantly small, the food feels hearty, warm, and lavish, with older guests often recognizing the traditional flavors even if they can’t pinpoint the technique. Expect dishes like duck liver terrine sprinkled with flowers, a venison burger, and fried mangalica pork with smoky remoulade and baby romaine, or stop in simply for a glass of the estate’s unique wines." - Le Guide MICHELIN