Zooming In on the Two Stars: KOKS, Faroe Islands

"Promoted to two Michelin Stars in 2019, this is the very definition of a dining ‘experience’: you meet at a lakeside fermenting hut for an aperitif and a bowl of fortifying lamb broth while gazing over the water and mountains, then a Land Rover carries you along a bumpy gravel track to a picturesque 18th‑century turf‑roofed former farmhouse and forge. Inside, the intimate, romantic setting spans three wood‑clad rooms that blend traditional and modern touches—sheepskins on benches, Faroese art on the walls, and low timbers that make you duck—while a creative, highly seasonal menu of around 20 courses champions Faroese produce and traditional techniques like drying, fermenting, salting, and smoking. The islands’ terroir leads the way with foraged elements and unusual ingredients such as gannet and razorbill; seafood shines (notably Faroese scallops and halibut with watercress), and the two‑month fermented lamb with onion has become a staple. Dishes are pure yet complex with excellent balance, service is charming—relaxed, detailed, and engaging—and as much care goes into the juice pairings as the wine flights. Inspector favorites underscore the style: Jákupsskeljar (a raw scallop served in its shell with barnacles still alive) tastes sweet and buttery with remarkable purity; Skerpikøt offers wafer‑thin, air‑dried lamb with a lingonberry mayonnaise and a sprinkle of finely shredded dried seaweed for saline lift; Ræst Kjøt og Leykur layers warm fermented lamb shoulder with fine, lightly pickled onion ‘leaves,’ pickled lingonberries, and a rich glossy reduction; and Søl og Bláber sets fine dulse flakes over blueberry‑infused cream with crisp buckwheat for a beautiful play of textures and flavors. Head chef Poul Andrias Zisca was also named Michelin Nordic Countries Young Chef 2019." - The MICHELIN Guide Nordic Editorial Team