In Paris’ Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Classic Bistros Meet a New Generation

"Seated at a window table with Chef Bruno Doucet, I enjoyed a comforting spread — a croque monsieur, eggs mayonnaise and steaming bowls of onion soup — that encapsulates the MICHELIN-approved bistro's enduring, produce-driven bistronomy; Doucet, who took over from founder Yves Camdeborde in 2022, balances a zero-pretense atmosphere with techniques and seasonal ingredients so that a main course like a perfectly flaky Breton-caught fillet of hake on a bed of foam-topped girolles can rival a fine-dining dish, while the ever-changing plat du jour keeps the menu tied to the harvest and the spirit of having a good time." - Annick Weber