"One recent Saturday evening at Le Dive—a new wine bar on the corner of Canal and Ludlow Streets, from the people behind Brooklyn’s Le Crocodile—I watched a foursome seat themselves at a couple of unoccupied café tables outside, as one might in the Eleventh Arrondissement. A host approached; I heard the words 'two-hour wait.' Four pairs of eyes grew wide. The group retreated in silent resignation." - Hannah Goldfield