The entrance flies a bit under the radar (hint: look for the "S" on the door), but once inside owner Stella Spanu's Italian gem, nothing is held back. The place is utterly stunning with a discernible 1930s sexy speakeasy ambience. Chef Filippo Piccini impresses with a focused menu of pan-regional Italian dishes. If comfort is what you need, start with ribollita, that traditional, thick Tuscan soup brimming with vegetables, beans and silky bread. Limone e uova di mare offers a dramatic presentation with a nest of spaghettone alla chitarra, while Milanese di vitello, with a properly thick chop of satiny Limousin veal, is a special for good reason. Finally, babà al rum is an elegant ode to one of Naples' best-known desserts. - Michelin Inspector
