
4
"Housed in a 16th-century townhouse and recently awarded three Michelin stars, the restaurant led by Tohru Nakamura blends his Japanese heritage and Bavarian upbringing into precise, memory-driven dishes. Rather than leaning on regional clichés, the kitchen offers items such as veal sweetbreads prepared karaage-style, lightly grilled oysters with buckwheat and mussel jus, and pollock topped with morels, pickled spruce shoots and Macvin sauce. Nakamura emphasizes community—sourcing mushrooms from nearby market vendors, keeping long-tenured staff, and serving a loyal local clientele—while fostering an international kitchen where multiple languages and backgrounds inform both hospitality and technique. The result is food rooted in tradition but expressed through personal storytelling and technical exactitude." - Craig Sauers