"I headed to dinner at Inat Kuća, which translates to 'Spite House,' inside a historic Ottoman home. It serves refined Bosnian specialties, some with familiar names that betray their Ottoman roots — ćufte, pilav, meza — and even Bosnian wines, in a lively, celebratory atmosphere. I ate my zeljanica, a börek-like spinach-and-cheese pie, while listening to traditional sevdalinka music on the packed terrace, which juts over the river." - Helen Schulman