"Guesthouse Letnja Basta is a family affair; a young man manages it, while his mother and sister do the cooking on the same woodstove that also heats the house. We sat at a long guest table, where the women served us a dinner of cabbage slaw, tomatoes from outside Sarajevo, a firm Bosnian cheese reminiscent of feta, and the best roasted potatoes, unearthed that morning from their garden. Bread and chicken followed, then local lamb with rice and peas. Halvah and syrup-soaked pastries. Wine and beer. The feeling was convivial and warm, and after a while we went upstairs to fall into our beds, a little drunk and pleasantly stuffed." - Helen Schulman