Domaine de l'Ecu

Natural Wine Is on the Rise in France's Loire Valley - AFAR

"A cellar dominated by dozens of giant clay amphoras, where amphora winemaking—an ancient tradition—has been revived to produce natural, flint-dry wines from melon de Bourgogne that resemble muscadet but cannot carry the name. The space is described as almost spiritual, with music played to the urns and symbols painted on the largest amphorae (runic motifs the winemaker says are for protection). The winemaker, a former lawyer, insists on hands-on care—refusing to bury the amphoras so he can touch and ‘give energy’ to them—and produces unstabilized, variable natural wines that some critics mistake for flaws even as Michelin-star restaurants buy them. He is outspoken about fighting for acceptance within the French appellation system." - Emma John