Youssef Akhtarini Fled Syria. His Baklava Recipe Came With Him. | Bon Appétit
"Founded by Syrian baker Youssef Akhtarini after he and his wife resettled in Providence, the bakery grew out of neighborhood gatherings into a packed, stand-alone shop celebrated for its flaky, balanced Syrian pastries. Akhtarini—who began apprenticing at 15 in Aleppo and later ran bakeries there—hand-rolls phyllo, brushes lemon-kissed syrup over layers, and uses specialty ghee and Turkish pistachios to produce signature items: crackling baklava, savory-sweet pistachio fingers, decadent bird’s nests, and the labor-intensive mabrooma (deep-fried, syrup-soaked shredded phyllo that is caramelized to finish); the overall approach emphasizes restraint in sweetness, favoring citrus notes. Pastries are typically served with a ginger-mint-cardamom tea, and the small menu also offers savory staples like stuffed grape leaves, falafel, beef kibbeh, and chicken kebabs. The space is designed to feel like a Syrian home—patterned windows, a small fountain, plants, copper teapots, and a handmade backgammon board—and functions as a haven for homesick Syrians (many of whom are hired there), a community hub where Arabic is commonly spoken, and a local favorite that earned early acclaim and steady regulars despite minimal marketing. While Akhtarini sources ingredients from regional markets and longs for certain authentic items (like sheep-fat ghee and true Aleppo pepper), the business was made possible through support from the Dorcas International Institute and local volunteers who helped secure the building." - ByPriya Krishna
