"Housed in a historic firehouse that also operates as a bottle shop, this wine bar invites lingering meals that can extend for hours. Small plates start brightly (mackerel crudo, asparagus salad) and include showy bites like burnt leeks topped with salmon roe and a creamy sauce, while heartier offerings—lamb ribs with crispy sunchokes and pomegranate molasses, seared trout with cracker-like skin, and sweet potatoes with stracciatella and pumpkin seeds—deliver on richness and technique. Dessert highlights include a Basque-style cheesecake infused with Pecorino and Parmesan rinds; the frequently changing menu and thoughtful wine program make repeat visits appealing." - ByElazar Sontag