Elora Mill

"Three small spoonfuls of caviar — each topped with a tiny frond of dill — were resting, invitingly, on a small bed of smoked capelin–infused custard, its jiggly texture an ideal counterpoint to enhance the sensual pop of those little eggs on the tongue. And what’s this that sommelier Brie Dema is bringing our way? Flutes of Robert Moncuit Grand Cru Réserve Perpétuelle Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut? Nice choice, Brie, thank you. It was April 2nd, the day before Ontario was scheduled to descend into a province-wide lockdown. And my wife and I were settling in for an emergency tasting menu at the chef’s counter at Elora Mill, in Wellington County — where indoor dining was still permitted — for four more hours. We made the most of it."