Hotel Amparo

"Set the scene.Compared with some of the stuffy neighboring hotels, this is warm and inviting and harks back to an era when writers and painters travelled in exclusive circles and stayed at each other's homes—it’s almost as if you're staying with the Fitzgeralds in the South of France or in one of Neruda's tucked-away Chilean enclaves. Yet the aesthetic is fresh—and even edgy for the town—with abstract art and mid-century pieces in bold prints and patterns. What’s the story behind it?When a former mayor’s residence went on the market in the cobblestone town center, first-time hoteliers Mariana Barran de Goodall and Taylor Goodall (they were married in town five years earlier and fell in love with it) jumped on the place. They wasted no time enlisting Texan designer Aaron Rambo to transform the 300-year-old property, refreshing original details such as Belgian-wood panelling, concrete fireplaces, and crystal chandeliers, and adding Aztec-inspired murals by local artist Lucas Rise and traditional textiles and needlework by Hibiscus Linens, Barran de Goodall's own textile brand. What can we expect from our room?Cross the central courtyard lush with bougainvillea, agave, and stately palms and through two sets of wrought-iron and glass doors to enter the spacious Amparo room, which opens onto a bronze four-poster king bed layered with bright Oaxacan textiles. Looming above an original concrete fireplace is an oil painting of dapper Porfirio Díaz, one of Mexico’s longest-serving presidents, and whose presence not so subtly announces that you are indeed in the presidential suite. An orange velvet chair and a chaise lounge in a fresh palm print keep things modern—as do the bedside USB ports and a Bang & Olufsen Bluetooth speaker. How about the food and drink?Morning coffee and breakfast—solid dishes such as huevos rancheros—are served in the courtyard, which opens into a coffee bar with San Miguel’s first (and only) La Marzocco espresso machine. Lunch and dinner happen at the rooftop restaurant Bar Margaret, where Latino-Carribean small plates, including shrimp and grits topped with pico de gallo, pair wonderfully with selections from the bar's natural wine list. Locanda, opening later in 2019, will have a rotating menu of handmade Italian pastas and Sicilian wines. Anything to say about the service?Attentive—no request seemed too large, from breakfast in bed to last-minute reservations at the city's top restaurants. Who comes here?Young and affluent. They've seen the world and their personal style and travel experiences prove it. Unpretentious but appreciative of the finer things. They know Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera only scratch the surface of Mexico's prolific art scene, and they appreciate top-notch interiors and top-notch mezcal. How does it fit into the neighborhood?It’s located in the town center, where San Miguel de Allende's Spanish-Colonial heritage is on full-display, which makes its forward-looking design and unfussy hospitality—in a sea of at times stuffy, deliberately nostalgic hotels—all the more appealing. Is there anything you'd change?No, Mariana Barran de Goodall and Taylor Goodall nailed it. Anything we missed?The Le Labo bottles in the bathroom were almost as lovely as the mezcal-infused chocolates from Mexico-City based BUNA that were left during turndown. Is it worth it—and why?Honestly—between the attentive service, elegant rooms, and impeccable dining—they could get away with charging more." - Michaela Trimble