Es Racó d'Artà

Es Racó D’artà

"Why book? Country-house hotels are practically two-a-penny on Mallorca, but Es Racó d’Artà takes the genre in a radically new direction. High ideals of conservation and sustainability combine with the exquisite simplicity of Toni Esteva’s design, and the result is astounding. Set the scene: From the 13th century until a few years ago this huge estate outside Artà, legendary in the area, was primarily an agricultural operation. In its new incarnation it attracts a switched-on international crowd looking to disconnect in the estate’s superb natural surroundings—yet Es Racó is still a working farm. The backstory: Architect and designer Toni Esteva has curated some of Mallorca’s most luscious country hotels (Son Gener, Son Penya, Can Simoneta), but the ambition of Es Racó surpasses them all. The difference is in the scale of the undertaking—the estate is one of the island’s largest rural estates—and the seriousness of its commitment to environmental protection. The rooms: The eight rooms in the big house have the charm of their historic situation (plus sumptuous views of crags and valleys) while two stand-alone casas and 21 casitas offer a wider sense of privacy. Mere decoration is eschewed in favor of a coolly spartan aesthetic (beamed ceilings, masses of whitewash, carpets woven from raw wool and jute, simple, stylish furniture) that in no way precludes comfort. Food and drink: Don’t call it a restaurant. Beni Axir is Es Racó’s standalone “gastronomic space” for simple Mediterranean formulae (grilled fish, slow-cooked pulses) based on organic ingredients sourced as close to the kitchen as possible. Olive oil, fruit and vegetables, herbs and flowers, and wine are produced on the estate. The spa: Elegantly housed in its own pavilion, light-filled and with views over open country, the spa is a cornerstone of the estate’s functioning. Alicia, formerly of SHA, brings with her innovative therapies like underwater Watsu (“water” plus “shiatsu”) massage. The Gaia range of 100 percent organic and island-sourced beauty products is used for treatments. The area: Set within the protected Parc Natural de Llevant, beside the town of Artà in Mallorca’s wild and unexploited northeast corner, Es Racó sprawls over 568 acres of Mediterranean forest, lush farmland, and craggy uplands. Keep it under your straw hat, but one of the island’s loveliest unspoiled beaches, Cala Torta, lies within a few minutes’ drive. The service: The mostly young and Spanish staff is prepossessing and personable. They totally get Es Racó’s holistic philosophy and are skilled at transmitting it to guests without ramming it home. Interfacing with the place and its culture is key: astronomy sessions, guided hikes around the estate, pottery classes with traditional ceramicists, or a visit to blacksmith Toni Ferriol’s forge in Artà are all possibilities. Eco effort: The eco effort here is considerable and commendable. Geothermal and solar energy heats the building. The saltwater pool is cleaned by ionization. Wastewater is treated in a reed-bed system and returned to the environment, while food leftovers are composted on-site. Bleach and parabens are a no-no; amenities come in recycled plastic or maize-fiber bottles. Accessibility: People with mobility issues will find the space tricky, given the irregularities of a medieval stone house and the estate’s rough terrain. Anything left to mention? Make time for a leisurely exploration of magical spaces like the possessió’s primitive kitchen, the pig-sty (now a meditation hall), and the ancient water cistern, preserved with all its timeworn textures and colors intact." - Paul Richardson