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"Amid the bustle near Time Out Market and Cais do Sodré, this brasserie-style refuge channels the elegance of Lisbon’s 19th-century cafés. Most seats curve around the calm, central kitchen, with intimate two-person booths along the windows; watching the chefs work is a quiet pleasure. I still think about the smoky, salty butter, a generous Bacalhau with hearty cod chunks, and the Brilhante steak—an homage to Bife à Marrare—paired with truffle mash; finish with the Piemonte hazelnut-and-chocolate soufflé and plan a nap." - Abigail Malbon