"The Rectory Hotel sits atop a small rise, next to All Saints’ Church, where the resident vicar once preached. When we stopped into the main house to pick up the key to our cottage, we saw guests wearing filthy boots in front of a log fire, their walking maps unfolded on the mantel. Somewhere down a softly lit hallway was the sound of paws skittering on flagstones, and the gnash of cutlery in the dining room."