In Madrid's Top Restaurants, Chefs Are Choosing Homestyle Cooking Over Molecular Gastronomy | Condé Nast Traveler

"One forkful of the no-frills, melt-in-your-mouth tuna carpaccio at Dani García's new Madrid outpost, which opened last September (following a first location in Marbella), and you'll wonder why he ever bothered with molecular gastronomy fripperies like iodized clam juice and liquid olives. For an umami-packed jolt, start with the seafood salami plate, with its smoked and cured cold cuts fashioned from a shoal's worth of fish, and plan to stay a while: The sherry is cold, the booths are snug, and the music is bright and catchy. Another casual García spot, on the roof of the new Four Seasons Madrid, opens this spring. Entrées from about $24"