"Tucked just within the city walls, between Garbatella and Re di Roma, Dogma is making Piazza Zama a veritable dining destination. A relative newcomer to the Roman restaurant scene, this seafood grill from chef Gabriele di Lecce and sommelier Alessandra Serramondi has been making waves since it opened in 2022. The design is minimalist, with white walls and black tables, but the buzzing, tightly packed space and clattering of plates feels decidedly Roman. Di Lecce’s tight menu is traditional Italian with a contemporary twist. Everything is cooked on the grill, from a prettily-plated starter of anchovies with almonds and chicory to the cod fish, served with grilled chard and drizzled in honey from Casaletto in Campagna. The first courses of pasta change depending on what’s fresh that day–a recent visit featured fettucine with shrimp and charred courgette, and spaghetti with scampi and a sprinkling of hazelnuts. Even the desserts are made on the grill–the unusual take on tiramisu is particularly special." - Maresa Manara
