Airelles Gordes, La Bastide
"Set the scene.Classified as one of France’s prettiest villages, Gordes’ tourist-targeted over-gentrification might be off-putting, yet La Bastide de Gordes rises above all jaded categorization as you as step inside the lobby. Though the plush 18th-century décor feels slightly overdone, the handpicked antiques are the real thing from nearby l’Isle-sur-la Sorgue. Highlights include bewitching views of the Lubéron valley from every nook of the terraced gardens and dining spaces, and the west-facing rooms. The ultra-attentive staff, clad in cumbersome 18th-century Provencal costumes—flowered vests, corseted bodices, and puffy long skirts, and straw boater hats for men—set the mood: unabashedly romantic, yet surprisingly family-friendly. What’s the story?Ever since 1948, when the resident artist Victor Vasarely put Gordes on the map, the town has welcomed political bigwigs, French presidents, artists, and musicians. When the hotel changed hands in 2014, interior designer Christophe Tollemer stepped in, redecorating in the palest shades of straw yellow and olive green, and refurbishing dramatic staircases, along with pared down bone-white corridors and wood, in the spirit of the nearby Abbaye Notre-Dame-de-Sénanque. Yes, the garden cloister arches are brand new, but the seamless blend of old and fake old really works. What can we expect from our room?The 34 rooms and six suites are a subdued medley of antique chairs, polished wood writing desks, leather-bound books, terra cotta tiled-floors, and deeply comfortable beds skirted with muted Provençal fabrics. The over-abundance of 18th-century portraits—stern-faced matrons and whiskered men—staring at you may be unnerving at times, but it’s all part of the ambience. Well-thought details include old-fashioned porcelain light switches and a TV hidden behind a large gilded mirror; tall windows open out onto the valley with a reverie-inspiring view. How about the food and drink?A sure-fire crowd-pleaser, the latest addition to the restaurant choices is Clover, a variation on the mini-Parisian empire of healthy modern French dishes run by celebrity chef Jean-François Piège, with a guilt-free menu of terroir food. Highlights include the amuse-bouche whipped eggplant with pine nuts; perfectly cooked John Dory with spicy fig sauce, and the chef’s signature spin on churros, which are feather-light and topped with chocolate and vanilla ice cream. Families may opt for the simpler regional specialties at L’Orangerie, but serious foodies can while away the hours on the dining terrace at the more formal gastronomic La Citadelle, or take a break from the 18th century for an evening at the snazzy contemporary Asian restaurant TIGrr, with a live DJ. Breakfast, though not included, is a hearty affair, with standouts that include baked apples stuffed with dried fruit, homemade gingerbread, and thick wedges of French toast. Anything to say about the service?Smooth, efficient, and impeccable, though at times, stiffly formal. Should you leap up for a second helping at the breakfast buffet, a waiter brandishing a fresh starched napkin will whisk it back into your lap upon your return. The concierge organizes a variety of excursions that range from chugging along the countryside roads in a vintage Citroën to visits to olive oil mills and vineyards. What sort of person comes here?Summertime Provence draws a coterie of chic international crowd—bronzed French industrialists with stubble beards, panama hats, and linen-shirts; Americans from Connecticut in their Calvin Klein khaki shorts and baseball caps; smartly dressed fit European couples who are die-hard cyclists and own holiday homes in the area. What’s the neighborhood scene like?The village boutiques scattered along the sloping cobblestone alleys are just a five-minute stroll away, and offer the standard unremarkable Provence souvenirs—traditional fabrics, yellow pottery, straw bags, and sweet-smelling soaps. If you’re looking for high-end local products, La Bastide de Gordes’ own shop features exclusive olive oils, like the pricey liquid gold from Chateau d’Estoublon, as well as delicious jams from the Airelles Collection. For more authentic finds, explore the villages of nearby Lourmarin, Bonnieux, and Menerbes. Anything you'd change?The walls could be less cluttered with antique portraits of departed anonymous ancestors; the perfectly manicured emerald lawn, not indigenous to the scorching sun of Provence, feels slightly out of place. Anything we missed?Wellness-friendly activities (see: the free mountain bikes) prevail. Describe the spa experience.Designed with the neighboring 12th-century Abbaye de Sénaque in mind, the monkish minimalism—polished dark wood, long, bone-white corridors—add to the unique quality of this attractive space. Surrendering to a relaxing massage with a pungent herbal oil—one treatment among many of Sisley’s top-notch line of Phyto-aromatic beauty products—was in perfect sync with the luxe countryside spirit. A final note: Is it worth it?This spacious hotel has just the right balance of superb terroir cuisine, atmosphere, comfort ,and service that sets it apart from the other smaller Provence hotels in the region." - Lanie Goodman
