"Enter through a slatted wood door, pass under the noren curtains, and you'll find yourself in Tempura Uchitsu, where the making of the batter is elevated to high art. With few words but deliberate actions, chef Takahisa Uchitsu works his magic; behind him, a wall-sized display of verdant forestry frames his every careful move. This is tempura, reimagined as ballet. Uchitsu is delicate in his preparation, working vegetables and proteins into his konabachi with the self-assuredness of a Premier Maître. A flimsy drinks menu leans heavy on France: a grand cru from Montrachet, a sumptuous Chablis. Gravitate toward the bubbles—no wine cuts through fat quite like Champagne." - Brad Japhe