"The cheerful thatched-roof cottages of Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa were a welcome sight after a long day on the road. I didn't grow up visiting all-inclusive resorts, so I was uninitiated to this daily roster of trivia nights, marshmallow braais, and volleyball matches to corral guests. Rajnee and I embraced the vacation atmosphere, coming in second place at trivia, playing pool with families, and joining a rambunctious group from Johannesburg for a sunset cruise. But we also found moments of serenity away from the holidaymakers, unwinding in a spa with panoramic views of the forested slopes over the ocean. Later, we took a two-minute ferry across the river, where we rounded a sand dune that a few kids were enthusiastically hurtling themselves down, to find a beguiling beach devoid of people."