"A meal at Amo, one of the hot new Venice restaurants near the Rialto Bridge, changed how I feel about department store dining. Amo, where this dazzling meal took place, is inside the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a historic building in Venice whose exterior was recently overhauled by Rem Koolhaus. It comes to you thanks to the Alajmo brothers, Massimiliano and Raffaelle, an award-winning duo of restaurateurs known for the much-lauded Le Calandre in Padua; they also have the more casual Caffe Quadri in Venice, and Caffe Stern in Paris. There’s even a store, In.gredienti, that sells a line of carefully chosen products under the Alajmo name. Somehow, Amo bridges all of the above—it’s casual and easygoing, yet maintains the level of service you’d find in the Michelin-starred Le Calandre. Nor does it trade on quality or execution of a single plate. And not to put too fine a point on it, but the bill won’t make your eyes water: you can order a la carte, or choose from two different tasting menus, one at 65 euro for six courses, and one at 80 for seven courses."