pars Restaurant + Pralinen

Pars

"What were your first impressions when you arrived? Just off of West Berlin’s charming Savignyplatz, you step into a minimalist white-walled space that could be mistaken for one of the art galleries dotting the Charlottenburg neighborhood—which makes complete sense considering that owner Kristiane Kegelmann is a sculptor (plus current chocolatier and former master pastry chef) herself. The intimate environs include one long communal table, looking into the open kitchen, with four smaller dining tables in a second room. The only wall decorations are bas reliefs left behind by the space’s former occupant, Café Savigny. There’s not a lot of distraction here, all the better to focus on the precise plates you’re about to experience. What’s the crowd like? A sophisticated crowd of West Berlin creatives—gallery owners, creative directors, tech executives—are all dressed to impress. Some have come because they’re fans of Kegelmann’s cult pars pralinen handmade chocolates (which can be bought online, or at the restaurant); some live in the neighborhood and want to see what the buzz is about. What should we be drinking? Sommelier Julia Giese brings serious natural wine cred to these parts—she was co-owner of one of Neukölln’s original natural wine bars, Jaja—so you’d be doing yourself a disservice not to get the wine pairings (€89, or $96) along with your food here. The quirky, experimental choices range from German and Austrian sekt (sparkling wine) to small, female-led French producers to unusual Japanese varieties. While you may not agree with—or even like—all of the pairings, you’re certain to try selections you’ve never had before. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Chef Alina Jakobsmeier has a deft hand with the modern German-Austrian dishes, using mainly locally sourced ingredients from small producers. While dishes sound deceptively simple (king oyster mushrooms with fermented leek; sturgeon with chicken stock and elderflower)—and indeed pars’ credo is to reduce dishes to their essentials—flavors are bold and bright. One thing to note: Dishes tend to be on the small side, with some akin to tastes, so make sure to pace yourself with the abundant wine. You, of course, must end the meal with a praline, perhaps wild elderberry or one of the other seasonal flavors—and we dare you to leave without buying a box to take home. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Staff are knowledgeable and serious about their work, but with a playful vibe. If asked, they can get all geeky about pars’ food inspirations and the fine details of each wine, but they also realize that, in the end, you’re here to enjoy your meal without the pretense. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Natural wine obsessives who appreciate unique food will feel right at home here." - Liz Humphreys