GoldenEye

Hotel · Saint Mary

13

@cntraveler

"What's the vibe here? Few places manage to condense the sheer joy of island living as successfully as Jamaica’s favorite hotel. Hip, friendly, respectful. Lovely trees, gently sloping sands, and a bewitching turquoise sea, cocktails muddled with lime, pineapple, and rum. Lovely. Is there a good story you can tell us about the place? Ian Fleming bought the site for Goldeneye (as he named it) in 1946, building a utilitarian home close to the sea where he loved to skinny-dip. Thirty years later Chris Blackwell, the Jamaican founder of Island Records, acquired the property, subsequently adding more land. Barbara Hulanicki, creator of the Biba fashion store, worked on the interiors and many well-known musicians have hung out by its tranquil waters. What are the rooms like? What can we expect from ours? King-size beds and air conditioning, most with a garden shower. Families love the beach villas with their full kitchen, while lagoon cottages have their own kayak. Interiors have a cheerful feel and are well thought out, from the hand-dyed batik robes to arty boxes of matches and a personal music player with curated playlists. Fleming’s original villa sleeps 10 and still has its original sunken garden and steps down to a small private beach. Martinis and dinner jackets would seem essential. If we're hungry but don't want to venture far, what are our options? Super-casual Bizot Bar is best, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner—try the spicy fish cakes and save space for the homemade ice creams. Dinner is also served in The Gazebo, a tree-house-style restaurant that focuses on farm produce—if you see anything from Pantrepant, go for it; this is Chris Blackwell's sustainable farm and its butter and honey tastes divine. How's the service? Consistently good-natured, stars of the show. Who are you likely to find booking a room here? The savvy tribe, who know there's much more to Jamaican music than "No Woman, No Cry." They know how life works and the value of a holiday here, particularly if they have kids or teenagers in tow—Jamaica is one of the few places the latter are always keen to check out. Are there any sights in the surrounding area we should check out? You should at least make the short trip to Noël Coward's home, Firefly, and every Tuesday night there's a trip to local bars and rustic restaurants in Oracabessa. Anything else we should know about the hotel? Some beach huts are wheelchair accessible; there's an outdoor 'jungle gym' and a floodlit tennis court. It all sounds lovely—do you have any feedback, though? Take out the TVs. Who needs one when you can enjoy the waves, the flowers, the birds, the stars? Not to mention a heap of James Bond books. So why are people drawn to this place? Look in the woods and you'll find trees planted by Johnny Depp, Kate Moss, and Pierce Brosnan. But everyone checks in here for the same thing: peace, sunshine, and beautiful nature." - Nigel Tisdall

GoldenEye – Hotel Review | Condé Nast Traveler
Courtesy GoldenEye/©2013 Nikolas Koenig

Race course, Oracabessa, Jamaica Get directions

goldeneye.com
@goldeneye

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