"If you’re looking for a good old American chicken shack, you’ve come to the wrong place. All the better for you. While this offbeat little gem in a Westminster strip mall does whip up a mean pile of wings, it’s the so-called things that make it worth the trip. Never mind, then, that the dining room isn’t much to look at—the decor’s about as generic as it comes—because your attention is going to be wholly captured first by a selection of Chinese, Thai, Laotian, and Cambodian specialties so enormous it takes a good five minutes to read through the menu and second by the fact that, somehow, the kitchen manages to nail every last dish. To single out, say, the simultaneously earthy and sprightly duck larb; the delightfully chewy lort, a short Cambodian rice noodle fried with your choice of protein; or the crunchy-tender roast pork belly tossed with snappy blistered green beans is perhaps to inadvertently steer you away from dozens upon dozens of other equally stellar dishes." - Ruth Tobias
