"Give us a bit of context. What's this place all about?A complete original and unlike any of the dozens of imitators that have sprouted all over Santorini. A smoldering volcano sends ripples across the still, blue expanse of sea, sculpted white houses seem to tumble off sheer, reddish-black cliffs. Yachts drift into the distance. As you step through a small wooden gate, and zigzag down grey steps lined with bright red and hot pink geraniums and bordered by black volcanic boulders, everything else fades into a dazzled silence. So how did this place establish itself as the original?While almost every other hotelier on Santorini has opened one hotel after another, the Psychas family have stayed true to their original intentions: to transform some 300-year-old stables and fisherman’s shacks into a simple, intimate, quiet place where family, friends, and friends of friends could get away. Costis, the builder (and sailor/surfer) in the family, has carved out a few more extra special suites from the rock-face over the years, but there are still only 20-something rooms. And they’re much bigger than most of the cramped, musty ‘cave rooms’ on Santorini. They have no plans to expand. Perivolas is still very much a family business, who take everything extremely personally in the best possible way. Naturally, they would never namecheck any of the celebrities who have stayed at Perivolas, but they range from starchitects to Hollywood stars to supermodels. What are the rooms like?Apart from wifi, everything is pared down to the absolute essentials. Every surface has been hand-finished. The brushed concrete floors have cracks and scars that feel soothing under bare feet. Simple wooden cabinets and closets recall the unfussy furniture on yachts, perfectly right for a Greek island setting. The bare interiors are jazzed up with a couple of oversized cushions in daring fuchsia and mauve, a trio of vintage, blue glass carafes, a sprig of bougainvillea… but there’s nothing else to distract the eye from those views. All rooms have a slightly different view and a very personal touch. Sounds lovely. If we're in need of a little pit stop before venturing out on a day of touristing, are the on-site food options worthwhile? Breakfast is simple, with Greek yogurt and honey, of course, finely diced fruit, cereals; the à la carte options—courgette and feta omelette, scrambled eggs with cherry tomatoes, detox juices—are unfailingly excellent. In 2018, the Psychas family poached a young sous chef, Theodoros Kakoulis, from one of the best restaurants on Santorini and let him go wild in the kitchen: luscious octopus softened in sweet Vinsanto wine, delicate pink red mullet with orzo, saffron and samphire, yogurt swirled with white chocolate, honey, oats, thyme, and lime. How's the service?While Costis and Maria-Eirini orchestrate proceedings behind the scenes, crisp, fresh-faced Sandrine is front-of-house. Reception feels more like a family parlor. The staff are young, low-key, dressed in an informal uniform of sand-colored linen trousers and sneakers for dashing up and down the sheer steps that connect the rooms and suites. Who are you likely to see milling about the lobby or in the dining room?Zen-seekers. Page Six-haters. People who value privacy over showmanship. Of course, you care about climate change, you’re plugged into the international design scene, you work out on holidays. But right now, you just want to lie in the sun with The New Yorker, Mulatu Astatke, Bill Evans, and Nina Simone on your headphones. What is the surrounding area like?While downtown Oia’s narrow lanes get completely clogged up during the summer, this end of town is remarkably peaceful. Most day-trippers don’t bother coming this way as there are no shops, restaurants, or bars at this end of the village. Any tips for how to make our stay even more enjoyable?Book well in advance for a massage on your terrace or in the small, simple spa—a calm, light-filled treatment room with a steam room, sauna, and jet shower downstairs. Gentle but firm, the therapists have an almost intuitive ability to work out your kinks. A smart new gym and grey lap pool are across the street. We're optimists—we figure you're into this place, otherwise you wouldn't recommend it—but do you have any constructive criticism?Service is unfailingly friendly, but the young staff sometimes feels slightly out of their depth. So if we're planning to visit Santorini, why should we opt for Perivolas?The only problem with staying at Perivolas is that you’ll hardly see anything of Santorini, as the place has a magnetic pull that makes it hard to leave." - Rachel Howard
