In Tbilisi, Georgia, Food Is a Language of Resistance | Condé Nast Traveler

"In a sleek new spot in the city center that locals tout as the current favorite for khinkali, waiters in leather-like aprons brought me steaming plates: beef dumplings that tasted like a meaty herbal bath of coriander and parsley, and a potato-and-cheese version that veered into sweet-and-savory dessert territory with a heavy butter sauce. I like to flip each khinkali by its doughy knob, grind black pepper over the flat bottom, and eat with my hands; juice runs down my fingers, a sensuous snack best managed by keeping the dumpling close to my mouth to catch the steady drip." - Gary Shteyngart