"Chef Fai-hung Leung is so popular that when he tried to retire, his fans kept asking him to return. When he finally did at Hoi King Heen, the menu was well-received by local foodies. There are the dim sum classics, such as char siu (barbecued pork) and har gow (steamed shrimp dumplings), but it's when chef Leung goes slightly off-book that it gets interesting: Spring rolls with matsutake, for example, have a much deeper, earthier umami than the typical shiitake preparation." - Kate Springer, Janice Leung Hayes
